Rv propane regulator troubleshooting

Chilly weather outside? Not great news for an RVer like myself and so many others. Luckily, each motorhome comes equipped with a decent propane furnace which keeps everyone warm inside the vehicle. But like most things, furnaces can malfunction. Perhaps a fuse is blown, or a terrible smell is spreading. Whatever it is, an RVer ought to have a handy RV propane furnace troubleshooting guide. Each RV comes with furnaces of different sizes, types, and capabilities.

Troubleshooting RV Propane Furnace That Won’t Ignite

Having a functioning one inside the RV is extremely important, and sometimes even the smallest glitches can cause huge issues. With most RVs, the furnace is located on the lower side of an RV.

I can usually tell what the furnace looks like and where it is based on the outside vents. Most of the ducts that run from the furnace run from the bottom through the entire RV, heating it up evenly.

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The short answer is — yes and no. Airflow is very important, and a thick filter can do more harm than good. With modern RVs, removing the furnace is easy. There are several key steps I should do before I can remove my furnace. Next, I disconnect the gas line, the vents and any wiring connecting it to the thermostat and other gadgets.

These wires might even have to be cut and reconnected later. If not, they can cause lots of problems in the future. One of the issues that will pop up in this text deals with noise, specifically squealing. This can be caused by motor bearings, and the quickest solution is lubrication. For maximum effect, a few strategic drops of oil will suffice.

Some of them relate to the furnace not igniting, even if other elements are working fine such as the fan. Then there are various noise-related problems, such as clicking, humming or squealing.

Of course, any foul smells usually indicate problems with the furnace as well.

rv propane regulator troubleshooting

Each of these problems has a suitable solution, some of which even the owner can apply without the aid of an expert. This is a fairly common problem every RVer faces.Does your RV propane refrigerator turn on for a brief moment before shutting off again?

To help get RV refrigerators back up and running, Dave takes you outside our demo camper to show you the inside of a sample burner assembly. Click here to cancel reply. I have a Norcold that has started making a poping sound at the burner when operating.

I have replaced the burner and purchased an LP gas psi gauge to check psi which is within specs. I still have the poping sound. It seems to operate ok for about 1 hr before it starts this poping sound. Hello, the burner is what I have seen cause this problem before. Usually rust or some sort of debris.

Since you have replaced the burner, may have to inspect things around it. Air flow blockage could cause this. The baffle can rust over time, and if pieces fall off and cause a blockage above the burner it will restrict air flow and if air is restricted the flame could pop when more air gets to it. There could even be a blockage on top of the baffle not allowing the exhaust to come out.

If you can see the flame, make sure it is steady and not moving side to side or being pushed down. The flame should be straight up. Make sure there are no other restrictions around the burner as well. The problem with checking this is most of the time is you would have to pull the fridge out to remove the baffle and inspect the tube.

It could also be the gas valve closing and reopening due to voltage drop or possibly a failing valve. Have you cleaned everything including the orifice? Does the burner tube have any kinks or sharp bends? Let me know if you find problems with any of this, I will do some more research and see if I can find any more information for you. Dometic Refrig Mod.

DM works on Electric but does not stay lit on gas? Have gas in line, cleaned burner, runs for short time then goes out. Does not stay lit.A propane regulator controls the amount of propane that reaches a burner in an oven or grill. Since these are placed directly under the burners, it's not uncommon to have problems with them occasionally. If your burners aren't heating up as you think they should, there are some simple things you can do to find and correct the problem.

Food that is allowed to drip on to the actual burner can eventually clog the regulator. For outdoor grills, leaves and other grime can cause the same problem. Simply inspecting the burners can alert you to this being an issue.

rv propane regulator troubleshooting

You can avoid these issues by purchasing a cover for off season. Using spill guards on pans for a stove, or just making sure that you are using proper sized pans can also eliminate these issues.

Another reason the burners may not be heating up could be a clog in the vent holes. To check for this you just need to tap on the unit until the tubing moves. If there is any debris in the vent holes it should come loose with the tapping. A can of air can also do the trick if the tapping isn't working. Make sure the gas supply is off before you do this. Most cans of air are under pressure, and using this while the propane is still on can be very dangerous. A damaged hose can cause problems with the burners.

If you smell propane, you should immediately stop using the unit. Weak spots in the hose can cause propane to leak. You can check for weak spots and holes by removing the hose and submerging it in to a bucket of soapy water. If you see bubbles, then you have a leak. While there are patch kits available, it's much safer to just toss the old hose and purchase a new one rather than try to repair the damaged one.

If you don't see bubbles, then run your bare hand along the length of the hose. You want to feel for differences in the thickness of the tubing. A soft or otherwise soggy spot indicates a weakened section, and the hose should be replaced. A propane tank can make strange noises when there is a problem with the tank.

Can RV Propane Lines Or Propane Regulators Freeze?

You may think there is a problem with the regulator, when in fact the tank is the culprit. Listen for gurgling or humming sounds coming from the regulator. If you hear this you may have a tank that is overfilled. A tank that is too full can actually limit the flow to the burner. You can't drain propane out of a tank that is too full.Welcome to The Camping Nerd! The RV propane regulator is going to be near your propane tank or tanks. The regulator needs to be next to the propane tanks because the first stage of the regulator needs to control the pressure right out of the tank itself in order to properly work.

For more information on how RV propane regulators work check out this post here. The stove is a great way to troubleshoot your RV propane regulator and a lot of these signs can be seen from a burner.

I recently had to change out a bad propane regulator on my travel trailer. And during the process, I learned a lot about regulators and how they function. If you need to change out your RV propane regulator check out this post for information on how to install the new one and what you will need. The flame on any of your propane appliances should be a strong blue. The flames should be blue and almost level with the burner. If they are blue but making a roaring sound and very tall then you have too much pressure.

If you hear popping noises when you turn off the flames on your RV stoves burner then your propane regulator may be having issues. This was an issue I was having. All of the burners were popping when I turned them off. After replacing the regulator the popping issue was solved. Popping noises can also be a sign of a damaged burner. It may be dirty or askew. If you are starting to notice dark black marks forming around your water heater or even in your RV kitchen by the stove you either have something in the burner that is causing soot or you have a weak flame that is not burning cleanly.

You can adjust the flame strength on a water heater and that may be an easy solution to the problem. But if the heavy soot continues you may have a bad RV propane regulator.You turn the dial on the thermostat, expecting a rush of warm air, but then nothing is happening.

What are you going to do? Once the pilot light is lit, the furnace is controlled by the flow of gas alone. As long the RVs batteries are suitably charged and you have a supply of gas, then you can operate the furnace with no issues. Air Return : The air return is a vent on the inside of the RV that sucks in air to circulate through the heat exchanger and out through the ducts.

This is not to be confused with the air used for combustion, there is a seperate intake for this.

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Blower Motor : The blower motor drives a couple of fans that circulate air through the furnace. One fan brings air in through the Air Return, the other fan brings in air from outside into the combustion chamber and out through the exhaust.

If the circuit breaker has triggered it can often be reset but the underlying cause of the trigger should be investigated and fixed. Combustion Air Intake : This is the air inlet positioned on the exterior of the RV that pumps air into the combustion chamber. Combustion Chamber : The chamber where oxygen and propane are burned to produce heat.

Ducts : The Ducts carry the heated air from the furnace to the interior of the RV. Exhaust : The exhaust is an air outlet on the exterior of the RV that exhausts the gases produced during the combustion process.

The gases are a combination of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide, these gases must never enter the interior of the RV, doing so can result in serious injury or death. Lower fan speed will result in a lower BTU output. Heat Exchanger : The heat exchanger used conduction to take the heat generated within the combustion chamber and uses it to warm the air circulating through the ducts.

rv propane regulator troubleshooting

Gas Valve : The gas valve is an electronically controlled valve which opens to allow gas to flow into the combustion chamber. High Limit Switch : The high limit switch controls excess heat from damaging the heat exchanger.

If the temperatures get too high the switch will cut power and avoid damage that could be caused. Damage to the heat exchanger can cause deadly gases to enter the ducts, so this is a very important safety device. Igniter : The igniter generates a spark to ignite the propane.And then — it happens.

And then you realize your fridge is running on electricity rather than propane! You are sure you filled the propane tank before you left for your RV camping trip. But now the RV propane is not flowing!

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Start by checking these four items and chances are you will solve your dilemma. It is very likely that one of these four things is causing low or no flow of propane to your RV appliances. However, there could be other causes as well.

So, read on as we discover what to do when the RV propane is not flowing. And you are right! Let me run a very typical scenario by you.

You are preparing to go on your RV road trip. And if you are like me, you turn on the RV fridge the night before to give the refrigerator and freezer ample time to get cold. So, the propane valve is open, and the batteries are on, and you turn on the fridge. And the next morning the fridge is nice and cold. You load up all of your food and ice and the rest of your belongings, and off you go!

First stop, is to gas up and top off the propane tank. Well, guess what. For the attendant to fill your propane tank, the propane valve MUST be in the closed position. So, he closes the tank valve and fills your propane tank.

Then he leaves the valve in the closed position, as he should. So you try to see if propane comes out of a stovetop burner. Because the attendant did the right thing and turned the propane valve off when he filled your propane tank. Just turn the propane valve on, and you are all set. What the heck is an excess flow valve? The excess flow valve is designed to stop or substantially reduce the flow of propane gas if there is a leak somewhere in the RV propane system.

If this happens, the spring or ball engage and stop the flow of propane. It regulates the pressure of the propane gas coming from the propane tank at high pressure and lowers it to the proper level for your propane appliances.

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The regulator is installed between the propane tank and the rest of the propane system. The first stage of the pressure regulator lowers the pressure form as high as psi to approximately 10 to 15 psi. Then, the second stage lowers the pressure to around 11 water column inches, which is the proper amount for your RV appliances.

RV Fridge Troubleshooting (How To Change A Propane Regulator)

If your RV has two propane tanks, then you will have a two-stage propane regulator with two pigtail hosesbut the concept is exactly the same. Pressure regulators typically last for 10 to 15 years, but inevitably they will fail. The good news is they are very easy to install yourself, and they are pretty inexpensive. If your propane gas regulator is working correctly the flame color should be blue and the flame height will be even around your cooktop burner.

All you need to do to troubleshoot your RV propane regulator is to look for some common signs of trouble. Some signs of possible problems with a propane gas regulator are yellow or orange flames; a popping noise when turning a stovetop burner on or off, a roaring noise from the stovetop burners, or an accumulation of soot on the burners.The RV propane tank regulator is essential for maintaining the safe functioning and effectiveness of your propane system, which helps to operate many of the appliances you use on your motorhome, travel trailer, or 5th Wheel including the water heater, stovetop burners, refrigerator and oven.

To help you learn about pressure in a propane system, Dave Solberg demonstrates how an RV propane tank regulator works to adjust the pressure in a DOT cylinder in order to properly function at a safe level in harmony with the needs of the appliances on your motorhome.

How an RV Propane Tank Regulator Works

Dave walks you step by step through the inspection process for an RV propane tank regulator, discussing some of the components you should monitor when running through a standard maintenance check. A couple of these standard things include freezing in the ventilation location or a low, fluctuating or nonexistent flame, which usually signifies cracking somewhere in the propane regulation system.

If you experience either of the above issues, you should visit your nearest propane filling station or motor home maintenance center to have the freezing dealt with and any cracks in piping replace on the RV propane tank regulator. For the most part, these guides as well as online discussion boards have troubleshooting tips for taking care of common issues.

rv propane regulator troubleshooting

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